Bike Construction – Done!
Its a Salsa Collosal (eat a big breakfast!)
I want as comfy bike as possible to munch the miles. (ie stable, predicable)
I also want it to ride well ie its not dull. Its tough to combine the 2 but my argon 18 tri bike did it so well I considered doing the tcr on it.. (but have seen a bit of sense)
I wanted disk brakes. Solid reliable braking (Alps in the rain with gear?) in all weathers. Fit and forget (ish)
I wanted titanium but cost stopped me.
It needs to be put together reasonably cheaply, (I am buying lots of other stuff)
I will be scavenging kit from / sacrificing my winter road bike. I was going to grab stuff from my cyclocross/ commute bike but have decided to try to keep that in one piece – fitted mud guards are nice on winter.
Stuff and Reasons
Press fit bottom bracket.
10 mins web time helped figuring out what a press fit bottom bracket actually is….
I have a cheep bearing press. watch a utube video, and a bit of lube, a couple of false starts as the brackets start to go in wonky, then go for it
…. Easy peasy
Hmm all the last frames I bought came with a headset. This one did not.
Spent 2 hours looking at what I needed… Internal width of the frame, external width of the steerer tube, oh and it’s tapered….
Ended up with a mix and match set from the oddly named Gusset. Looks fine.
Bit more pfaffing with the press (tried both top and bottom bearings at the same time – gave up on that then did the top first then bottom. Again a bit of lube and in they went
Cheap ex display / marked white wcs aluminium bars from Chain reaction. Would love carbon but I am using tri bars and like those really tight. I don’t like over-tightening on plastic (oops I mean) carbon bars.
White bars and a grey frame look ‘interesting’ together.
t3 carbon flippy pads, aluminium bars. Means I can flip the pads up and climb on the top of the handlebars. Having a range of hand positions is important.
These work surprisingly well
Cost. scavenged from original bike, but specifically purchased in Dec. @ £90
Scavenged from my old road bike / my parts bin. I’ll check the fit then will adjust as needed
Scavenged from either my wife’s mtb (control tec carbon) or a Thompson aluminium post from my mtb. Probably going to go for the Thompson post – an extra 40g to carry the rear pack securely?
Have bought a 170g carbon bontrager post from eBay… Great price…. Then noticed (after purchasing it) it’s coming from Hong Kong. Oh dear. I’ll put it on my mtb!
Cost £40 for a (fake) post.
Saddle – an ASM adamo prologue saddle. Scavenged from my road bike. Its white, longer and comfier than the ISM Adamo Road I used to use, and better for road riding than the tri specific Road model.
Was going to cannibalize the bb7 brakes from my commute bike. However, the frame takes 140mm rotors without adaptors, so I started looking online. Rotors are £20 a pop, using my existing 160mm rotors means I can flip wheels easilly, (don’t always want to run my dynamo hub?)
Found a set of bb7 road sl (super light version saving 40g) for the same cost as the normal version – bargain! I bought 2, and a post convertor to adapt the caliper position from 140mm rotors to 160mm
thought hard on a ride the other day. what does 140mm max mean on the frame specs… err 160mm may not be a good idea. I now have 140mm rotors 😦
Cost £90 + £40 for new rotors
Will be buying a new set (hed rims, 32 spokes, son dynamo hub) but in the meantime I have a pair of disk specific road wheels from an old cyclocross bike.
Cost £880!!!! but scavenged initially
Scavenged totally from the old road bike, the Betty Leeds. Its SRAM Rival for training, but I’ll borrow the SRAM Force stuff I have on my nice roadbike a month out from the TCR
Currently got a 53/39 SRAM red / quark power meter on it. However I am planning on using a compact 50/34 for the event.
That means no power data, (but I’ll be going slowly) but does mean I can spin up anything :-). I think this is important going up alpine passes with a load of kit
Cost £ – nill